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+<TITLE>GNU Shogi manual: Handicaps</TITLE>
-<TITLE>GNU Shogi manual - Sample game</TITLE>
-</HEAD>
-<BODY >
- [<A HREF="gnushogi_toc.html">Contents</A>]   [<A HREF="gnushogi_12.html">Back</A>]   [<A HREF="gnushogi_4.html">Prev</A>]   [<A HREF="gnushogi_3.html">Up</A>]   [<A HREF="gnushogi_14.html">Next</A>]   [<A HREF="gnushogi_14.html">Forward</A>]  <BR><HR><BR>
-
-
-<H2><A NAME="SEC16">Sample game</A></H2>
-<P>
-<A NAME="IDX12"></A>
-
-
-<P>
-This game was annotated by Pieter Stouten (see section <A HREF="gnushogi_19.html#SEC22">References and links</A>). I have made some minor corrections. Note that captures are
-denoted by the "x" symbol e.g. Rx3f and drops are denoted by the "*"
-symbol e.g. R*3f. Check is indicated by a "+" after the move,
-e.g. R3f+. I recommend you use gnushogi/xshogi to play along with this
-game. In xshogi simply hit the "Force Moves" button after starting
-up, while in gnushogi enter the word "force" at the prompt. This will
-allow you to enter moves for both sides.
-
-
-<P>
-Note also that the move numbering system used here is the chess-type
-system where one move means one move by each player. The Japanese count
-one move made by each player as two moves.
-
-
-<P>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-<P>
-Below you will find (the English translation of) an annotated game which
-was published in the Dutch Shogi magazine "81" and in the Dutch
-beginners booklet. It has proven to be a very useful game to explain
-some basic principles of Shogi. Also, it is a rather straightforward
-game compared to professional games where in most cases very diffuse
-middle game fights take place.
-
-
-<P>
- Pieter Stouten, 14th May 1990.
-
-
-<P>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
-
-<P>
-Black: Michael Trent (1-dan). White: David Murphy (2-dan).
-
-
-<P>
- 1. P2f P3d 2. P2e B3c <BR>
-[ This move is necessary, as otherwise white can exchange pawns: 3. P2d
-Px2d 4. Rx2d. He would thus get a pawn in hand and open up his rook
-file. ]
-
-
-<P>
- 3. P7f P4d <BR>
-[ White closes the bishop diagonal again. He plans to play ranging rook
-(the rook goes to 5b, 4b, 3 or 2b; a defensive strategy) and in that
-case he'd better avoid an exchange of bishops. One of the reasons is
-that he will have problems developing his pieces without leaving holes
-for bishop drops. ]
-
-
-<P>
- 4. S4h R3b 5. P3f S4b 6. K6h K6b <BR>
-[ In general the rook plays an important role in the attacks. It is
-wise to move the king away from the area where the initial fights will
-be and both players act according to the Shogi proverb "keep the rook
-and king apart". ]
+<META NAME="description" CONTENT="GNU Shogi manual: Handicaps">
+<META NAME="keywords" CONTENT="GNU Shogi manual: Handicaps">
+<META NAME="resource-type" CONTENT="document">
+<META NAME="distribution" CONTENT="global">
+<META NAME="Generator" CONTENT="texi2html 1.64">
+</HEAD>
-<P>
- 7. K7h K7b 8. P5f P5d 9. G4i-5h G4a-5b <BR>
-[ Both players use their second gold general to build their castle. ]
-
-
-<P>
- 10. S6h <BR>
-[ In itself this move is not bad. However, it will become clear that
-black plans a quick attack and in that case it is wiser to omit this
-move. ]
-
-
-<P>
- 10... S5c 11. P1f P1d <BR>
-[ The advance of the edge pawns must be timed very well. The remark at
-black's tenth move applies here too: this move is good if black wants to
-play a slow game, because it eliminates a future B1e. ]
-
-
-<P>
- 12. P4f K8b 13. N3g S7b <BR>
-[ Black develops his knight in order to start an attack over the second,
-third and fourth files. White strengthens his king's position and
-awaits the attack. He aims at a counterattack as soon as black has
-broken through into the white camp. Probably white's breakthrough will
-take place later, but he has good compensation in the form of a stronger
-castle. This theme occurs very often in static rook versus ranging rook
-games. ]
-
-
-<P>
- 14. P4e R4b <BR>
-[ Black starts his attack and white puts up a very passive defence. His
-rook has a hard task now to penetrate the black position. Moreover, he
-blocks his own bishop. It seems much better to start a counterattack
-with 14... P3e, later to be followed by B2b, B5a or Bx4d in order to use
-his rook more actively. ]
-
-
-<P>
- 15. Px4d Sx4d 16. P*4e S5c <BR>
-[ 16... Sx4e is more active. A silver general is normally more valuable
-than a knight, but white gets two pawns in hand and black none, while
-the knight might come in handy for white too. ]
-
-
-<P>
- 17. Bx3c+ Nx3c 18. P2d Px2d <BR>
-[ Black threatens to break through and white has to consider taking the
-pawn on 2d or starting a counterattack with Nx4e. If he chooses the
-latter, black can play Px2c+ followed by +P3c. The disadvantage is the
-black "tokin" (=promoted pawn) that white will get in his camp; the
-advantage is that it will cost black two more moves to promote his rook.
-Because white did not trust that the result after engaging in a
-"semeai" (=mutual attack) with 18...Nx4e would give a positive result,
-he captured the pawn on 2d. Making the right decision in moments like
-this often makes the difference between a win and a loss: miss one
-attacking chance and you will be forced to defend the whole game until
-the unavoidable defeat; on the other hand, an unsound attack can destroy
-all "aji" (=potential, meaning possibilities, threats) without getting
-anything in return. ]
-
-
-<P>
- 19. Rx2d Nx4e 20. Nx4e Rx4e 21. R2a+ P*4g <BR>
-[ Now it becomes clear why black's 10. S6h was not good. Had this move
-been omitted, then white would not have had the time to play 13... S7b
-and after R2a+ the gold on 6a would hang. Thus black would have kept
-"sente" (=initiative). Instead of 21... P*4g, B*6d is a very good
-move, because after 22. P*2h black does not have a pawn in hand anymore
-and he is being threatened with the annoying 22... N*4f 23. G5g N3h+
-24. S4g +N4h also. Black can also counter 21... B*6d with 22. N*3g.
-White would then reply with 22... R4b 23. B*3c P*4g 24. Bx4b+ Sx4b. The
-white rook has played its role and instead of spending moves on saving
-it white starts to scatter black's defences by successive pawn drops on
-the fourth file: 25. Gx4g P*4f 26. G5g N*6e 27. G5h P4g+ 28. Gx4g P*4f.
-This analysis was provided by Kato Hifumi, 9-dan professional (the
-highest regular grade). Destroying the coherence of the enemy pieces
-(their shape) by dropping pawns is one of the most important Shogi
-techniques. With the actual move 21... P*4g white missed a good
-chance. ]
-
-
-<P>
- 22. Sx4g P*4f 23. B*3g Px4g+ 24. +Rx6a +Px3g <BR>
-[ 23. B*3g seems pointless, but a closer look reveals that it is
-actually quite mean. On move 24 white cannot capture black's "Ryu"
-(=dragon =promoted rook) with his silver: 24... Sx6a 25. N*7d K7b
-26. G*8b mate. By attacking the front of the white castle and
-threatening to mate him there, black has the chance to break down the
-white defences from the side. ]
-
-
-<P>
- 25. +Rx5b S*6b <BR>
-[ Here 25... B*4d would be much better, because it is defensive and
-attacking at the same time. After e.g. 26. G*4c Bx9i+ 27. Gx5c black
-threatens 28. +Rx7b Kx7b 29. S*6a K8b 30. S*7a Kx7a 31. G*7b mate.
-White is one move quicker, however. He has the following beautiful
-"tsume" (mating sequence where every move is check): 27... N*8f 28. Px8f
-S*8g 29. Kx8g B*9h 30. K7h Bx8i+ 31. K8g +B8i-8h 32. K9f L*9e mate.
-This illustrates the sharpness of Shogi: one move can make the
-difference between winning and losing. ]
-
-
-<P>
- 26. P*4f Rx4f <BR>
-[ This move eliminates white's last chances. 26... R4b 27. +Rx4b Sx4b
-28. R*4a seems annoying, but after 28... B*3c 29. S7g B*3b white wins
-the rook and with his "tokin" on 3g there still is some hope. ]
-
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+<TD VALIGN="MIDDLE" ALIGN="LEFT">[<A HREF="gnushogi_toc.html#SEC_Contents">Contents</A>]</TD>
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+</TR></TABLE>
+<HR SIZE=1>
+<H3> 2.1.7 Handicaps </H3>
+<!--docid::SEC13::-->
<P>
- 27. N*6e +P4g <BR>
-[ White cannot defend anymore, so he starts a desperate attack. Black
-does not lose the right track, however. ]
+Unlike international chess, shogi has a well-established handicap system
+which is used when players of different strengths play against each
+other. Handicaps range from small to huge, which makes it possible for
+weak players to play against even very strong players and have an even
+chance of winning.
+</P><P>
-<P>
- 28. Nx5c+ +Px5h 29. +Nx6b +Px6h 30. Gx6h N*8f 31. Px8f B*6i 32. Gx6i
- R4h+ 33. N*6h +Rx6h 34. Gx6h S*8g 35. Kx8g N*9e 36. K7h Resigns <BR>
-[ White resigns here, because after 36... B*8g 27. K7g his attack has
-petered out. ]
+Shogi players are ranked as follows: the weakest rank is around 15
+"kyu", which represents a beginner. 14 kyu is higher than 15 kyu, 13
+kyu is higher still, and so on until you get to 1 kyu. The next highest
+rank is 1 "dan", followed by 2 dan, 3 dan and so forth. The highest
+amateur rank is 6 dan; professionals go up to 9 dan. However,
+professional ranks are not the same as amateur ranks; a professional 1
+dan is <EM>much</EM> stronger than an amateur 1 dan. This system is
+similar to that used by go players (and also other Japanese sports such
+as karate).
+</P><P>
+
+A handicap consists of the stronger player playing White and removing
+one or more pieces from his side of the board at the start of the game.
+These pieces are permanently removed from play; they are not in hand.
+</P><P>
+
+The following is a list of the accepted handicaps, from weakest to
+strongest. The degree of the handicap, represented by the position in
+the list, represents the difference in rank between the two players for
+which the handicap is appropriate. These rules are taken from the books
+"Shogi for Beginners" by John Fairbairn and "The Art of Shogi" by
+Tony Hoskings (see section <A HREF="gnushogi_21.html#SEC21">5. References and links</A>) and, I believe, represent
+current Japanese practice.
+</P><P>
+
+<OL>
+
+<LI>
+The stronger player removes his left lance (on 1a).
+<P>
+
+<LI>
+The players play a two-game match; in the first game the stronger player
+removes his left lance (on 1a), while in the second game he removes his
+bishop.
+<P>
+
+<LI>
+The stronger player removes his bishop.
+<P>
+
+<LI>
+The stronger player removes his rook.
+<P>
+
+<LI>
+The stronger player removes his rook and left lance.
+<P>
+
+<LI>
+The players play a two-game match; in the first game the stronger player
+removes his rook and left lance (on 1a), while in the second game he
+removes his rook and bishop.
+<P>
+
+<LI>
+The stronger player removes his rook and bishop. This is usually called
+a "two-piece" handicap.
+<P>
+
+<LI>
+The stronger player removes his rook, bishop, and both lances. This is
+called a "four-piece" handicap.
+<P>
+
+<LI>
+The stronger player removes his rook, bishop, both lances, and both
+knights. This is called a "six-piece" handicap.
+<P>
+
+<LI>
+The stronger player removes his rook, bishop, both lances, both knights,
+and both silvers. This is called an "eight-piece" handicap.
+<P>
+
+</OL>
+<P>
+
+Another advantage of playing handicap games is that the handicaps alter
+the optimal strategy for both players. For instance, handicaps all have
+their own opening lines which may bear little or no resemblance to those
+used in non-handicap shogi. This means that when learning handicap
+shogi, you are essentially learning completely new games which use the
+same equipment!
+</P><P>
+The reader may wonder how on earth a player giving an eight-piece
+handicap, say, could possibly hope to win. Don't forget, though, that
+in shogi the opponent's pieces can be captured and then become part of
+one's own army. Thus, if the opponent plays badly enough, the number of
+pieces will soon even out.
+</P><P>
-<P></P><HR>
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